Mumbai day 1

Bungled into an overpriced taxi, we dragged slowly through the impassable morning traffic into the southern districts of Mumbai, passing incredible colonial and art-deco buildings. The main attraction, however, became Starbucks: part of the taj hotel complex (which was besieged by terrorists in 2008) we entered through airport-style security - never has a frappucino felt such a big deal.

I went searching for a hotel (assisted by Sarah for her bargaining talents), as the others headed with for breakfast inside the taj. "Anywhere but the Salvation Army", instructed Lissy. Well, to be fair to ourselves we did try countless hotels which were more horrible and crumbling, but the Salvy it was - Lissy looked ready to cry into her scrambled eggs when we broke the news. The Taj was fantastic, so much so that I removed my fanny pack to feel more stylish.

We visited the gateway of India - an arch built to commemorate George V's arrival (to think my welcome was only acknowledged by a sign for "Sack Down"!) - which was extremely impressive, but overspilling with people selling bizarrities: Eiffel Tower keyrings and 2-metre balloons being my personal favourite.

Leaving the gateway, I momentarily feared my hallucinations were returning - there, in the distance, stood a Pizza Express sign. Unfortunately, the staff wouldn't accept my Orange Wednesday 2for1 code, and so it was phenomenally expensive. Worth it? Is the pope catholic.

We then toured the museum of modern art (set in an awesome, Roundhouse-style building), allowing po-mo comments on the exhibits - Issy seemed particularly enthralled, sitting head in hands in front of one painting for most of our duration...

Frustratingly, I fell into a vicious fever as we settled in the Indigo deli to eat cake - crashing in the Salvation Army was a low point, all the more so as it meant I was unable to give the girls a fine send off: we parted ways as they were bound for Bangkok, leaning "forward to the next crazy venture beneath the skies".

With love