Kochi - terracotta testes

Choked by the pollution of Ernakulam, we hurried into the folklore museum, a heritage building containing the treasures of Kerala: foetal position burial urns? Check. 'Where the Wild Things Are' style masks? Check. Prehistoric terracotta penises? Of course.

A bizarre, but interesting, collection, it was reassuring to see that a history exists beneath the constant beeping and hassling. However, it was clear the museum was on a downer: the curators offered to sell us some of the displayed items - amazing pieces of gap trash they'd be, Im not sure lugging a 300-year old wooden sculpture around would be ideal.

Post-lunch we took the ferry back to fort kochi, immersed within the locals who have named me "jacky boy". Quite honestly, we had a sensationally lazy rest of day, in anticipation of the following day's madventure.

With love

Kochi - hassle free hassling

When I came to India I knew that, according to gap yah tradition, the likelihood of me adopting a child was fairly high. What I hadn't anticipated was that I'd want to adopt an adult: we had moved hotels in kochi to "green woods Bethlehem", and the owners - Sheeba and Ashley - are too adorable for words, it's almost absurd.

Releasing ourselves from the hugging arms of Sheeba, we set off exploring most of Fort Kochi: as we passed the Chinese fishing nets - 400-year old nets operated by weights - the locals operating them beckoned for us to join them. Admittedly, our rope-pulling didn't add much to their efficiency, but it was great fun - more so as the men, whilst they were pulling, chanted like something out of The Dark Knight Rises... We were then guilt tripped into giving the fishermen money - has anyone ever paid to do the job of another? Their disbelieving laughter as walked away confirmed my suspicions.

Borat jokes aside, we then wandered to the area known as Jewtown, whose highlights included the world's biggest Varpu (Indian frying pan) and a herd of feral goats that tailed us for hours. Overcome by a misguided confidence in our senses of direction, we endeavoured to walk back to the hotel through the spider's web streets of Matancherry. Thoroughly baked by the sun, we eventually returned to Sheeba's welcoming nest for tea on the rooftop terrace. It was there we met a charming, albeit extremely deep, German man who, as we tiredly sipped our Chai, lectured us on how "men are truly animals", quoting from hamlet etc. All stereotypes of the Germanic sense of humour were confirmed.

Our most expensive dinner yet (£15 in total) continued this evening of sophistication, especially due to the local yazz flute performance accompanying it - Rondeep Burgundy nailing it. Craving alcohol, we headed to a dodgy looking bar, which doubled up as "black magic tattoo parlour" (fear not, no related gap traj misadventures), where we were accosted by the over-chummy barman/drugdealer:

Barman: "we are like brothers, but we have different mother and different father"
Lissy: "aha! Brother from another mother?!"
Barman: "yes. And father."

With love

Alleppey/kochi

How did you spend your Monday morning? We spent it cruising the deserted backwaters, as Indian music - from speakers at the top of trees - played in the distant. Disgraceful gap year living, I'll be first to admit, but it was indescribably awesome - except for the scary keralan breakfast surprise: tasty looking pancakes with... Curry spice! Jokes aside, there was LITCHRALLY an ethereal haze sitting over the paddy fields we passed.

Reluctant to leave, we sprung onwards to kochi - a town colonised by Portuguese traders, with a 400-year old Jewish community and remnants of the British raj.
We checked into Spencer's home, a hotel within the civilised area of fort Cochin, which Lissy rightly likened to clapham - you need a visa to visit both, after all. Beside Spencer's was a huge playing field on which local boys were playing football and cricket: I was eager to get involved, but they totally blanked me - perhaps news of my last footballing venture (during which I knocked out the front tooth of a 9-year old - he was being cocky (I joke, but I genuinely did maim a child...)) has spread to these parts. #whyalwaysme

We've frequented a cafe called teapot, whose walls are adorned with teapots. Worryingly British vibe, but we never mention the C word out here. (Colonialism). Having heard about the buzzing art scene of kochi, we were pretty excited when a man approached us promising free entry to his friend's "art exhibition" - it soon became clear that we'd been scammed, unless one artist genuinely mass-produces miniature scale tuktuk souvenirs as a form of social commentary... Ironically, many shops hassle you to advertise their "hassle free shopping" - I ought to teach the shop-owners 'sausage' so at least they wouldn't be breaking their promises; sausages are quite a foreign concept here, however, and 'chapatti' hasn't quite got the same ring to it...

For those doubtful of father christmas's existence, be assured - I've found him: we ate in the fantastic dal roti, run by the indian incarnation of Santa himself, beard, minor alcohol problem and all.

With love

Alleppey - our first train journey, houseboating and hippies

Our trip from kollam to alleppey started startlingly smoothly: tickets purchased, we waited in the sweltering heat of the platform. An Indian lady brandishing a baby approached us, her entire family watching on eagerly. It felt a little like the lion king - I nearly took the baby from her hands and, holding it to the sky, started singing an old Indian folk song. I decided against it - perhaps a little too much.

We triumphantly found our seats, which were comfier than your average national rail offering, I even almost texted my family as I was so pleased with my success. Lissy rang hers. Then came the ticket inspector: perhaps it is by a secret code that ticket inspectors worldwide are total wankers. "Get up, get up, get out of this carriage", with 40 minutes of the 135min journey we'd done so well, albeit illegally - we were dumped next to the doors, one of which was flapping open.

We arrived at Johnson's in alleppey - run by the ginger-dyed, zealous Johnson, a very cool Indian with a tendency to "balance on his head whilst listening to trance music" (Tripadvisor). Having dumped our gear and fled - far too many beards and piercings on display - we explored alleppey, touring the beach (not unlike West Wittering), the spice market (Lissy's hand smelt like tikka masala for days after), and the "tourist office", where we conducted frustrating conversation regarding houseboat hire with the proprietors.

Disappointed (and chased on motorbike by a boat-owner hoping to close a deal), we returned to Johnson's, where we found Johnson, astonishingly on his feet, rather than head.
"Oh guys I've been searching for you, my houseboat has been repaired - do you want it until tomorrow lunchtime?" Bingo.

We spent the evening on the houseboat which was moored on the backwaters outside alleppey; a ridiculously tranquil/beaut location. The houseboat was huuuuuge, with hanging chairs downstairs beside the ginormous table, and a top deck with bedroom upstairs. As the evening grew dark, and candles were lit so we could see the vast amounts of food laid out, it felt like we were out of Heart of Darkness, minus the psychological anguish.

With love

Photos below: train malarkey, the carriage to which we were expelled,fellow yoloist, creepy sign; houseboat pt1

Kollam day 2 - moustachioed punting

"Newsflash: a wooden raft overburdened by the weight of 15 rusty cars and numerous obese tourists sank today, after some genius benightedly thought it a legit form of canal crossing" was a possibility that ran through my mind as I looked over my surroundings: en route to the backwater canoe trip our taxi had driven up what looked like step-ladders onto an already packed "barge". With tuktuks perched precariously on the edge, our impending fate seemed more inevitable than the loss of readership for this blog.

I'd like to say the canoe trip was worth the terrifying journey, because it was. As we ("we" being me, Lissy and two bearded Belgians - both men) were punted through the canals, we experienced a peacefulness quite distant from the wail of the towns. I half expected our punter (a young, excitable Indian whose name I forget, let's call him Clive) to break out in song a la Venetian gondolier. Fortunately, for all our sakes, he didn't.

Excited by the sight of an ancient local diving for clams as he swam the river (a seemingly impossible task given the water's murkiness), Clive took us round a villager's garden, pointing out the pepper, pineapple, cashews etc etc growing there. Actually quite fascinating to learn how resourceful they were in using the various plants for alternative medicine, despite having the cynic in me recalling Tim Minchin's "Do you know what they call 'alternative medicine' that's been proved to work? Medicine."

Clive handed me the pole, this was it: I was becoming a real man. A punter. Notorious my balance may be, even Clive was impressed with my efforts - the congratulatory bum-squeeze seems a little off in hindsight, though.

We visited a local rope factory, where coconut husks are harvested -in an ingenious, but laborious process - to make string. After Lissy had fashioned a small rope out of coconut fibre using a machine, Clive folded it up and handed to her: "now you can be like the rest of us with our facial hair", turning to me and the bearded Belgians. An awkward silence followed soon after my lack of beardiness became apparent.

Having returned to our hotel, we spent what remained of the afternoon hammocking. In the evening we were given some "black monk" rum (apparently drunk by the Indian army - quite tasty and in a monk-shaped bottle!) by fellow guests who got awkwardly hooned - they were cousins who lived in Canada/India, and they admitted to having Skype drinking sessions together. Just no.

Lissy beard update: pretty ropey
Jack beard update: prepubescent

With love


Ps - Lissy bought a cigarette packet whose safety warning picture looked astonishingly like John Terry (picture below)

Alleppey

Hello!
Sorry for the lapse in my usually Germanic posting efficiency - the wifi on my phone seems a little screwed up.
This is just a short note to say we are alive and most well - now in alleppey, about to get a houseboat overnight which should be incredible. Stay tuned until tomorrow when we will a) post the report of final day in kollam and b) post today's blog

With love as ever

(Photo below is from
Kollam canoeing - taster of things to come...)

Kollam - cashews and civil unrest

It was soon after noon when we were ambushed. smoke, explosions and flashes erupted to our right, Lissy ducked beneath our taxi's window for cover. And we were passing a standard, peaceful political rally - astonishing how hyped up everyone was, given the laid-back attitude of Kerala, typified by the contagious head-wobbling. They take politics seriously here: in 1957 Kerala democratically elected a communist govt - the first place in the world to do so - and there are currently 4 'communist' parties seeking election in Kerala.

The head wobble is leading to increasingly awkward situations. Eg: Me to tuktuk driver: "I can't remember the direction to Ashtamudi (our fantastic hotel), do you know the way?"
Tuktuk driver to me: *wobble wobble*
- long silence -
Me: "is that a yes wobble, or a no wobble?" He wasn't that offended, and I wanted to walk anyway.

So we're now based in Kollam, a town renowned for being the centre of the local, world-famous cashew industry - apparently Columbus was trying to get here for the cashews when he discovered America. Smart.

It turns out I'm as nuts (pardon da pun) about cashews as Columbus was: I loaded up on facts (from our hotel bookshelf) before we hit the town - cashews were introduced to India in around 1590, and they damn delicious.
It's so hard to make cashew-related jokes (see above), but well done to these time-heavy freaks for trying:
http://hilariouscashewjokes.tumblr.com/
Their jokes may possibly be worse than some of mine (yes, I have been joking).

Perhaps my dejected mental state can explain my terrible bant: not only was the famous Vijayalaxmi cashew emporium closed, but the only other tree-grown delights we could find were more expensive gram-for-gram than the weed Roti-the-rickshaw-dealer (see below, and if you're a parent of course i'm joking - he was v expensive) was shifting.

On the plus side, I got an Indian phone: this newsagent man called Riyaz gave me his SIM card and a phone, as well as his number - interesting 'game' tactics if ever I saw them. Also, this ancient, white-haired, emaciated fella on a bike asked us to take photos of him - having checked whether he looked sharp, he gave us his name so he could use the snaps for a new profile photo.

I spent a fair amount of time in the hammock today, so my nose is now looking like some sort of Jewish strawberry.